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© 1998 Society of Cosmetic Chemists
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Vol. 49, No. 4, 245-256


Thermal degradation of hair. II. Effect of selected polymers and surfactants
R. McMullen , J. Jachowicz

ABSTRACT

Synopsis

Fluorescence spectroscopy, combing analysis, and texture analysis with a dual-cantilever bending accessory have been employed to study the effect of pretreatments on the thermal damage of hair. The pretreatments, applied to hair as 1% aqueous solutions, included a cationic polymer (PVP\/DMAPA acrylates copolymer), a protein hydrolyzate (hydrolyzed wheat protein), and a cationic surfactant (quaternium 70). Fluorescence spectroscopy was used to probe the content of tryptophan (Trp) in hair, which is gradually destroyed by the application of curling irons at 132°C and 152°C. All pretreatment materials were found to reduce the extent of Trp decomposition by 10–20% as a result of 4–12 min of thermal exposure. Surface damage has been quantified by combing analysis and has shown that the use of PVP\/DMAPA acrylates copolymers or a cationic surfactant can suppress an increase in combing forces, which is observed in unmodified hair subjected to thermal exposure. The variation in stiffness of hair tresses has been studied by texture analysis with a dual-cantilever bending accessory. From the texture analysis, an increase in the stiffness ratio of the fiber assemblies was evident for polymer-modified and intact (unmodified) hair.

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© 1998 Society of Cosmetic Chemists
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists