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© 1995 Society of Cosmetic Chemists
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Vol. 46, No. 4, 181-190


Photochemical alterations in human hair. Part II: Analysis of melanin
Edo Hoting , Monika Zimmermann , Hartwig Höcker

ABSTRACT

Synopsis

A brief investigation was carried out of changes in the melanin pigment that occur during the irradiation of hair with simulated UV-B, UV-A, visible light, infrared light, and total sunlight. After six weeks of irradiation, the pigments were isolated from hair samples and the changes in their physicocharacteristics were evaluated.

The melanin appears to be affected most by visible light, although the pigment of black and dark brown hair (predominantly eumelanin) is less changed than that of light-brown hair (a mixture of eu- and pheomelanins).

The weight losses of melanin correlate with photochemically induced alterations of the melanin polymer. IR spectroscopic investigations characterize the eumelanin by five peaks and the pheomelanin by six peaks in the range of 1800 to 500 cm −1 . The intensity of some of these peaks decreases, depending on the irradiation wavelength and on the origin of melanin pigments.

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© 1995 Society of Cosmetic Chemists
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists