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© 1992 Society of Cosmetic Chemists
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Vol. 43, No. 5, 275-284

Silicones as conditioning agents in shampoos
Kazuyuki Yahagi



A one-step shampoo, generally called a “2 in 1” shampoo, exerting both cleansing and conditioning functions, differs to a great degree from conventional shampoo products, with its superb conditioning effects eliminating the necessity of a further conditioning step. Conditioning agents especially effective in such types of products are silicones, especially dimethicones with high molecular weight, dimethicone copolyol with low hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB), and amodimethicone. In this work, the conditioning effects of these silicones are discussed in terms of the surface deposition and alteration in hair surface characteristics by measuring the kinetic frictional coefficient of hair fibers in relation to the chemical types and the molecular weight of silicones. The improvement in surface kinetic characteristics was primarily noted with dimethicones with high molecular weight. Dimethicone copolyol with low HLB lowered the kinetic friction of the wet hair surface by forming liquid crystals. Amodimethicone improved manageability of hair by adsorbing strongly onto the damaged, and therefore more polarized, hair cuticles, which facilitated hair styling without blow-drying.

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© 1992 Society of Cosmetic Chemists
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists