Selective removal of sebum components from hair by surfactants
Jane Clarke , Clarence R. Robbins , Brenda Schroff

Synopsis

The detergency of three surfactants, sodium laureth 2-sulfate (SLES-2), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), and sodium octeth-1\/deceth-1 sulfate (SODS-1), was measured; variables examined were soil\/wash cycles plus sebum component vs total sebum removal. After one soil\/wash cycle SLES-2 cleans all sebum components from hair equally well (>90%). ALS is not as good, and SODS-1 is poor for all fractions.

With extended use (ten-cycle data), SLES-2 remains superior for all components (>90% removed), but the behavior of ALS and SODS-1 are substantially different from their one-cycle behaviors. Analysis of tresses washed with ALS under test and simulated use conditions suggests a build-up of fatty acid components on hair; this is interpreted in terms of a hard water ion\/fatty acid interaction. Extended use data of SODS-1 show increased removal for all components when compared to the one-cycle data, suggesting either a soil release mechanism or inhibition of soiling.

We hypothesize that a technique that provides a rapid assessment of total sebum removed from hair by a detergent can be used to screen surfactants. However, to model extended use behavior, it is useful to monitor the removal of sebum components.

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