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© 1984 Society of Cosmetic Chemists
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Vol. 35, No. 3, 147-156


The induction of skin tightness by surfactants
Michio Kawai , Genji Imokawa

ABSTRACT

Synopsis

We have examined the relationship between surfactant structure and the sensation of tightness which ordinarily occurs on facial skin a few minutes after face washing. Most anionic surfactants cause various degrees of skin tightness, the order being, TEA-lauryl phosphate < potassium myristate = TEA-cocoyl glutamate < sodium laureth-2 sulfate < sodium lauryl sulfate. The physicochemical characteristics of these surfactants, e.g., the ability to remove skin surface lipids, the ability to release amino acids and urocanic acid from the horny layers, and adsorption onto the skin were examined to learn about the causative factors responsible for the induction of skin tightness. Among these factors, the degree of tightness was shown to be related to both the lipid removal and the adsorption abilities of the surfactant. However, we conclude that residual surfactant present after removal of skin surface lipid is primarily responsible for inducing the tightness sensation.

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© 1984 Society of Cosmetic Chemists
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists