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© 1974 Society of Cosmetic Chemists
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Vol. 25, No. 5, 239-252

Skin Moisturizers. I. Methods for Measuring Water Regain, Mechanical Properties, and Transepidermal Moisture Loss of Stratum Corneum
Martin M. Rieger , Donald E. Deem



Four parameters for assessing the interaction between human STRATUM CORNEUM and WATER are described. Two methodologies, ELASTIC MODULUS and STRESS RELAXATION, for determining the MECHANICAL PROPERTIES of stratum corneum have been utilized. It is shown that both of these parameters depend on the moisture content of the stratum corneum, i.e., the ambient relative humidity. The rate of WATER VAPOR ABSORPTION by human stratum corneum, the third parameter examined, is a function of the ambient relative humidity. Surprisingly, the equilibrium moisture content of stratum corneum at humidities below approximately 80% appears to be essentially the same for unextracted stratum corneum and for stratum corneum extracted with lipid solvents. The fourth parameter, the rate of WATER VAPOR TRANSMISSION through stratum corneum in vitro, is a linear function of the ambient relative humidity and has been shown to be markedly affected by changes in temperature.

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© 1974 Society of Cosmetic Chemists
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists